Sans [ceuticals] | Glossary Index

Glossary


 
A

Avena Sativa [Oat] Kernel Extract

Oat Kernel extract helps strengthen the outer barrier of the skin, something often compromised in eczema and dermatitis sufferers. It is also anti-inflammatory and highly soothing, helping to reduce itching and calm the skin.


 
H

Helianthus Annuus [Sunflower] Seed Oil

Extracted from the seeds of the sunflower, sunflower seed oil is high in antioxidants and beta carotene, which protect and fight against free radicals. Also highly anti-inflammatory, sunflower seed oil contains compounds that protect collagen and elastin, along with linoleic acid and omega 6 fatty acid to help in cell regeneration.

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Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is derived via the fermentation process of wheat with a specific type of bacteria. It is then purified and precipitated to extract the hyaluronic acid naturally present in the wheat.

Hyaluronic acid is an excellent moisturiser as it acts like a “moisture magnet”. It can hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water and has the amazing ability to attract and bind water molecules, keeping collagen hydrated while plumping, softening and smoothing the skin. With age, the body’s ability to produce its own hyaluronic acid diminishes therefore topical application helps replenish the skin.

Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides

Fatty particles derived from coconuts, with lightly emulsifying properties, which improve product consistency and bind moisture to the skin's surface.

Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract

Baobab extract is a protein extracted from the seeds of the baobab fruit. These proteins significantly increase the barrier function of the hair to protect and lock in moisture.

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Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Siliqua [Carob] Seed Extract

Derived from the carob tree, Keratrix™ contains biofunctional peptides and amino acids that efficiently strengthen the hair fibre. Its sustained release system allows it to remain active in the hair over time, increasing hair resistance and elasticity, and strengthening and improving the condition of weak and dry hair. Keratrix™ repairs hair damage produced by mechanical, thermal and chemical processes.

Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract

Extracted from the Hibiscus esculentus (okra) seed. Hibiscus extract re-hydrates, plumps and smooths the hair fibre by generating a molecular layer of moisture (hydrophilic film) on the hair's cuticle surface, resulting in thicker, shinier, silky hair. Because Hibiscus extract contains anti-free radical properties, it restores balance in the dermal cells of dandruff sufferers.

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Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Hair is 91 per cent protein, which under a microscope resembles linked coils. These coils are what make our hair feel robust, strong and bouncy. When hair becomes damaged, the coils are weakened, leading to breakage. Hydrolyzed wheat proteins have a molecular weight that enables them to penetrate the cuticle layer, internally fortifying and strengthening the hair fibre.

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I

Illite Clay

Mineral-rich, Illite clay's unique properties attach themselves to oil, bacteria, and impurities to eliminate them and leave skin feeling cleansed, clarified, and balanced.


 
J

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba esters are produced through the hydrogenation or transesterification of jojoba oil. Jojoba esters are commonly used in cosmetic formulations as an emollient, due to its remarkable similarity to the natural oils produced by the human body and its high oxidative stability. In hair care, it helps in supporting the hair's hydro-lipid barrier.


 
K

KERATRIX™ - Hydrolyzed Ceratonia Silaqua [Carob] Seed Extract, Zea Mays [Corn] Starch, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

Keratrix™ is derived from the carob tree and contains biofunctional peptides and amino acids to efficiently strengthen the hair fiber. Its sustained release system allows it to remain in the hair for a prolonged action. It is a cosmetic active ingredient which increases hair resistance and elasticity, and strengthens and improves weak and dry hair. Keratrix™ repairs hair damage produced by mechanical, thermal and chemical processes.


 
L

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is produced via the fermentation of carbohydrates such as glucose, sucrose, or lactose. It is one of the most popular alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) as it is gentler on the skin, helping reduce breakouts and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles and other signs of ageing.

Lauryl Glucoside & Stearyl Citrate

Lauryl glucoside is a foaming agent used in cosmetic formulations as a natural alternative to sulfates. It is naturally derived from sugar, palm and coconut oil. Stearyl citrate is derived from stearyl alcohol and citric acid. Stearyl alcohol is a naturally fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid, coconut oil or vegetable fatty acids, and is used as a conditioning agent to soothe and soften, and as an emulsifier. Citric acid is obtained by feeding Aspergillus sucrose or glucose (sugar), which subsequently converts it into a citric acid.

Leptospermum Scoparium Mel [Mānuka] Honey

Highly valued for its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, which accelerate natural wound repair to provide outstanding healing properties, Mãnuka Honey also works as a humectant, drawing vital moisture into the skin to nourish and restore, while balancing the skin’s pH levels.

Limnanthes Alba [Meadowfoam] Seed Oil

Extracted from the seeds of meadowfoam [Limnanthes alba], Meadowfoam oil is supremely high in antioxidants, protecting against free radicals and slowing down transepidermal water loss in the skin. It is also highly anti-inflammatory, making it excellent for eczema or dermatitis.

Meadowfoam Oil

Limonene

A chemical found in the peel of citrus fruits and other plants, Limonene is the chemical constituent of many natural fragrance oils.

Linalool

The chemical constituent of many natural fragrance oils such as lavender, citrus, basil and rose, Linalool is a floral and spicy terpene alcohol that is found in over 200 plants.

Linum Usitatissimum [Linseed] Seed Oil

Linseed oil, also known as flaxseed oil, is a colourless to yellowish oil obtained from the dried, ripened seeds of the flax plant.

Litchi Chinensis [Lychee] Extract

Highly moisturising, regulating and energising, lychee extract contains antioxidant free-radical scavengers to protect against ultraviolet stress from UVA and UVB rays and photo-aging. It offers overall protective activity, resulting in a brighter and more radiant complexion.

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Lycium Barbarum [Goji] Fruit Extract

Obtained from the fruit of the goji berry, this extract is a powerful antioxidant and skin-softening agent with the ability to capture superoxide radicals and inhibit lipid peroxidation. Lipid peroxidation is the oxidation and degradation of lipids—healthy, youthful skin has an abundance of naturally occurring lipids that protect the skin from damage.

Lycium Barbarum [Goji] Seed Oil

Penetrating deep into the skin, Goji Berry Seed oil is rich in polysaccharides, vitamins, and essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid (omega 6). It protects and repairs the skin by stimulating intercellular oxygenation, helping to restore the vital balance of water and fats in the hydrolipidic film of the skin. It also assists in blood circulation.

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M

Macadamia Ternifolia [Macadamia] Nut Oil

Macadamia oil is easily assimilated by the skin as it contains 22 percent omega 7/palmitoleic acid, the substance found in our own natural sebum, making it one of the most skin-compatible oils for use in skincare. As the skin ages, palmitoleic acid production decreases, making skin drier and more crepey. Replenishing mature skin with this lipid helps it retain suppleness by replacing naturally occurring cell lipids, creating younger and fresher looking skin.

Macadamia Ingredient Crop

Macropiper Excelsum [Kawakawa] Leaf Extract

Kawakawa extract is a powerful native New Zealand botanical that possesses antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties to help soothe and heal irritated skin.

Mangifera Indica [Mango] Seed Butter

Pressed from the kernels of the mango fruit, mango butter is rich in proteins, fats, and Vitamin B, and is an intensely lipid-rich ingredient for nourishing dry skin. It also promotes cell regeneration within the skin and possesses UV ray protection.

Glossary Mango Butter

 
N

Niacinamide

Niacinamide formulated at 5 per cent is a powerful and efficacious ingredient. It has the ability to inhibit the transfer of pigment to skin cells preventing hyperpigmentation, reduce water loss, strengthen the protective barrier function of the skin, reduce inflammation and balance the skin’s pH level. It has also been proven to effectively reverse and minimise UV damage by boosting the skin’s immune response, regulate sebum production, stimulate collagen and elastin production in fibroblasts, and boost mitochondria performance.


 
O

Oenothera Biennis [Evening Primrose] Oil

Evening Primrose oil is high in omega 3s, which are key in boosting cell turnover, are anti-inflammatory and skin softening. It is also rich in vitamin E, making it effective in reducing moisture loss and promoting cell regeneration. A superb emollient and skin nutrient, it is also high in essential fatty acids.

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Olea Europaea [Olive] Fruit Oil

Olive oil contains 25 different natural antioxidants, including several high in vitamin E, A, and K, fatty acids (oleic, palmitic, and linoleic) and antioxidant flavonoids. Scientific tests have shown that these antioxidants not only attack and destroy the harmful free radicals that age the skin, but also have antibacterial and antifungal properties.

The most potent compound found in olive oil is hydroxytyrosol, which contains a high concentration of anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for even the most sensitive skin types, including babies and those with eczema and psoriasis.

Omegas

Omegas (EFAs) are vital fats that are part of every cell in the body. They are the necessary lipidic component of our skin because they maintain moisture, softness and elasticity while providing a protective barrier against disease-causing organisms and harmful bacteria. The body's normal secretion of EFAs decreases with age, leaving skin dry and crepey. We need to ensure that we feed our skin with the correct balance and amount of omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9 to help keep it soft, supple and plump. When topically applied, omegas are readily absorbed into the epidermal and dermal tissue layers providing moisture, hydration, elasticity, skin smoothness, wrinkle reduction and relief from irritation and redness caused by UV exposure. Omegas also help combat inflammatory disorders. The skin of a normal, healthy 20-year-old has a balance of 50% water and 50% fat. Thus, while omegas are essential for healthy skin, the best skin care requires a balance of oil and water to maintain healthy function.

Omegas are fatty acids that the body requires for good health because they moisturise internally and help with the uptake of other essential vitamins and minerals. It is important to note that the body does not manufacture these fatty acids; therefore, they must be included in the diet. Only two fatty acids are known to be essential for humans: alpha-linolenic acid (an omega 3 fatty acid) and linoleic acid (an omega 6 fatty acid).

Omega 3: Helps to boost natural cell turnover and regulates cell hydration. As we get older, our skin loses that ‘fresh faced’ look because of its inability to renew quickly. Omega 3 has long been known to have hydrating, anti-inflammatory and anti-coagulant properties. Applied topically, it is considered to be effective in the treatment of psoriasis and acne.

Omega 6: Maintains healthy skin, hair and nails, and generally helps to bring about hormonal and emotional balance. Omega 6 has a pro-inflammatory effect, while omega 3 has a non-inflammatory effect. For optimal results we need to have a balanced ratio of omega 6 and omega 3.

Omega 7: The rarest of all omegas. Macadamia nut oil contains one of the highest amounts of palmitoleic acid (omega 7) of any plant. Palmitoleic acid is a substance found in the skin’s natural oil (called sebum). As our skin ages, the amount of palmitoleic acid decreases making the skin dry and crepey. Omega 7 helps mature skin retain its suppleness and replaces naturally occurring cell lipids to create younger and fresher looking skin.

Omega 9: Has a high lipid count making it an excellent moisturiser without leaving skin greasy. Omega 9 (oleic acid) is able to penetrate past the outer layer of the skin, leading to a more intense and longer lasting nourishment while enhancing the skin's ability to absorb active ingredients. It is widely used as a delivery system in topical medicines.


 
P

Palmitic Acid

Derived from sustainably harvested, RSPO certified palm oil, palmitic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid in the body. For this reason, it is easily converted by the skin to prevent moisture loss and protect against bacteria and allergens.

Panax [Ginseng] Root Extract

Ginseng extract contains a large number of phytonutrients that stimulate and activate the skin’s metabolism and blood flow, helping to regenerate and tone. Ginseng also possesses adaptogenic properties, which help the body adapt to stress from both internal and external sources. Adaptogens raise resistance to physical, chemical or biological stresses and boost cell recovery, thereby normalising the body’s physiological state.

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